Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
